Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Gaudi, Paree, and Barack

Here I am in rainy, gloomy, romantic Paris. I'm staying with my friend Dana, who is in the middle of a PhD in 19th Century French Romanticism at Emory and is here for the year doing research at the French National Archives. Tom (who was visiting me in J'lem) is also here. I arrived late, late Saturday night after yet another tempestuous Ryanair flight from Barcelona.

The last few days in Barcelona were exciting. My estimation of the city as being a tourist trap didn't change much, but I did enjoy the food and architecture. Friday day Jason and I explored the Picasso museum, which was a weird mixture of really early and really late Picassos. But it was really great; lots of blue period and his entire 54-canvas reinterpretation of Velazquez's Las Meninas, which we had seen a few days piror in Madrid. We also went to the Barcelona Chocolate museum (which included chocolate models of many Gaudi buildings) and then tried to go to shabbat services at the progressive synagogue in Barcelona. The synagogue adventure was strange - I'll blog in detail about it when home - but long story short, much to Jason and my frustration, we didn't get to enjoy shabbat the way we wanted to.

Our final day in Spain was spent between a morning in Park Guell - Gaudi's take on public urban space (a new kick of mine) - which features crazy tile sculptures, buildings that look like they're out of "Hansel and Gretel," and the longest park bench in the world. In the afternoon we saw the Olympic Port and accompanying sculptures built for the Olympics in 1992.

Paris, so far, has been great. Walking around the city, I can see why people fall in love with it, fall in love here, etc. Springtime, Summer, Fall, Winter, there's something totally iconic about it. It's like living in history (in a similar way to Jerusalem). It's very cliched - looking from the Eiffel Tower to the Louvre to Notre Dame - it's like being in a movie. Or being on a huge movie set. I keep looking for the cameras.

Dana has been a great host, speaking flawless French (while Tom and I purposefully have been butchering it), and touring us around the Louvre, Notre Dame, the Latin Quarter, Tulieres, the left bank and so on. We've also been eating pretty well. Today, Tom and I reconnected with our bohemian sides as we meandered around Montmartre and the area around the old Moulin Rogue. And now, we returned to Dana's apartment to watch the Inauguration (What a speech! What ambition! Not a campaign speech at all, but something marking the dawn of a new political and social reality. Who's excited?) and CNN's continuing coverage. Currently, Wolf Blitzer and Anderson Cooper are commenting on the lunch being eaten by the dignitaries in the Capitol Hill rotunda.

Tomorrow, we're off to Amsterdam to visit Tom's uncle Bruce and his partner Roland, and then on Friday I return to Israel.

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